1. Written by Catheryne Kelly for Cent Magazine -
2. Written by Perfume Of The Day -
A fragrance that evokes notes that it doesn't have and that is fresher than it may seem when reading the description. On the top notes, we find pepper and elemi, in the heart star anise and nutmeg and at the base cedarwood, cypriol and patchouli, however, it smells aquatic to my nose, with a minty and somewhat aromatic touch, like basil. Also, an aniseed nuance, which is indeed listed among the official notes. In any case, the important thing is the smell, and this is peculiar, different, and surprising, which is very good!
Una fragancia que evoca notas que no tiene y que es más fresco de lo que puede parecer al leer la descripción. En las notas de salida encontranos pimienta y elemi, en el corazón anís estrellado y nuez moscada y en la base madera de cedro, cipriol y pachulí, sin embargo a mí me huele acuático, con un toque mentolado y algo aromático, como albahaca. Además de un matiz anisado, que éste sí que está listado entre las notas oficiales. En cualquier caso, lo importante es el olor, y éste es peculiar, diferente y sorprendente, lo cual es muy bueno!
3. Written by Ever Dandy Silver Fox -
‘I’m a joker
I’m a smoker
I’m a midnight toker
I sure don’t want to hurt no one’
As I opened the box containing Le Joker, the latest wildcard launch from the ever-stylish Ruta Degutye and her chic brand Art de Parfum, it was the lyrics to Steve Miller’s song The Joker that rose up and went around and round inside my brain. Not his version but the sultry, lay-me-down and kiss my eyes version by K.D. Lang from her smoking-infused Drag album.
As always with Ruta’s perfumes there is a sense of instantaneous attraction. It comes from the meshing of cold transparent woods and the vitreous melonic spices that seem to sparkle in air before settling on skin. I hesitate to say oceanic because the sensation is more than that, it leans more to vegetal dampness, with the distinctive fruitiness of Timur pepper and star anise shaken with pink pepper, creamy nutmeg and a rush of ambroxan-soaked cypriol.
What makes Le Joker unusual is a distant echo of cigarette nostalgia, nothing ashtray, just a hint of cinematic romance, an idea of smoking. I gave up cigarettes and alcohol, fully accepting that both were ravaging my health, however, what is undeniable is that so much of my past, murky teenage years, Edinburgh student terms, time spent in Paris, a mix of hedonism, naivete, desire and exhaustion can be viewed through a haze of Marlboro and Gauloise smoke. The very nature of nostalgia demands I react to Le Joker’s gauzy trail of smoke with a melancholy jolt and appreciate the chewy mouthfeel of this intriguing perfume that plays carefully back and forth between enigma and familiarity. Le Joker lingers mightily, especially on clothes and like Encore Une Fois from 2019, I find myself loving the weirdo rush.
4. Written by We Wear Perfume -
The New Normal: Le Joker by Art de Parfum. Thrillingly for us here at WWP, we are beginning to see some new launches come through as we emerge from Lockdown and Le Joker by Art de Parfum -which launches today - is a terrific place to start. It’s a fragrance that sits well with the zeitgeist, as it’s inspired by the dark side of reality, how things are often not what they seem, with truth artfully hidden behind a mask.
When we chatted to founder Ruta Degutyte, she explained how she wanted to create a fragrance that encouraged daring and boldness in the wearer, so ideal for forging boldly forward into a new normal. The fragrance is a warm anchor of woodiness- cedar, mostly - with a gorgeous fruity warmth coming from both brightly cheery pink pepper and the divine floral-fruitiness of Timur pepper.
There’s star anise and nutmeg in the heart and the whole retains a bright, clean style that feels contemporary, a scent, perhaps, to empower and encourage action. There’s a lovely video available online to explain more, which has a very good sound track, handily crafted by Ruta’s equally talented husband, Paul Humphreys, co found of Orchestral Manoeuvres In The Dark. We like to think he was paid in perfume.
5. Reviewed by Studio Scents -
Unboxing and giving you my first impressions of niche house Art de Parfum's latest fragrance release, Le Joker!
Check out my first impressions on this complex, nuanced masterpiece!
6. Reviewed by Frag-Mental -
French Fragrance Haul - Unboxing and first impressions of Art de Parfum's latest fragrance release, Le Joker!