Review of Le Joker by Henrique Perrella

Le Joker Artwork by Art de Parfum


"Behind the simple and elegant bottle of Le Joker and behind its well polished and round fragrance lives perhaps the most ambitious and daring concept of the Art de Parfum brand to date. Le Joker is the seventh perfume of the brand and aims at the symbolism of wisdom and knowledge between the subtle difference that exists between reality and illusion. This subtle difference is explored within the symbolic character of the Joker, as if the brand returned to the character's recent cinematic construction and brought him right at the point of tension between his transformation into the great villain who sowed chaos."

It is important to pay close attention to inspiration as a whole as Le Joker is not an explosive or insane scent as could be expected by name and idea. The curious thing is that it is also not a well-behaved and ordinary perfume, however polished and refined it may be. There is something contradictory about its aroma - a certain tension between its elements that does not make it exactly easy to be deciphered.

Le Joker plays olfactually with the contrasts of light and dark and with the use of masks and makeup that alter reality and create two faces of the same situation. In this case, the faces seem to be between an aquatic aroma of ambergris and a drier, dark and tense side, symbolized by an animalic aroma of algae and nuances of smoke. At the center of this tension lies the intelligent use of timur pepper, capable of bringing both freshness and the darker and drier side to the perfume.

The fragrance opens as if we are facing a refined aquatic perfume - without aggressive and metallic notes, without Calone nuances. It is a fresh and slightly salty aroma of seaweed complemented by the minty and fresh touch of Timur pepper. This first face hides the raw and dark side of Le Joker, personified by a more animalic and dense air that seems to come from the ambergris itself and also from the use of algae in the composition.

The powdery part of the idea is smart, too. At first I expected a powdery soft and sweetish aspect but Le Joker uses the darker and vegetal side of Iris to bring this in a suggested way, as if signaling the shadow that lives behind the more aquatic and luminous side of the fragrance. The same can be said about the use of cypriol, patchouli and the smoke aspect - drier, woody and incense aspects that permeate the clean, aquatic and serene aura of the composition. 

Are we facing a conceptual perfume that has been polished and made pleasant for the consumer? Or do we have a fragrance that challenges the limits of the commercial and manipulates the perception of your audience? For me, it is the most interesting aspect of Le Joker, this mystery that seems to require reflection and wisdom in order for it to be understood."

Written by Henrique Perrella at Perfume do Dia